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The Musical Heart of Nepal: A Journey Through Tradition and Innovation

A waiter approaches Poole and requests to borrow his guitar. “Let’s play ‘Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door,’” he suggests, referencing the well-known Guns N’ Roses version. Before I can mention Bob Dylan, he’s already strumming the chords, and soon the entire lobby is filled with singing as guests and hotel staff join in. “Musicians have a natural connection,” Linhardt comments, and Jadhari laughs in agreement.

While music is a focal point of our itinerary, there are various cultural insights woven throughout our journey. Linhardt has planned visits to the historic village of Bungamati, famous for its woodcarving artisans, as well as pottery workshops and a thangka-painting school. Yet, it’s the music that captivates me the most. One morning, we visit the Music Museum of Nepal, established by curator Ram Prasad Kadel in 1995, dedicated to the preservation of traditional musical heritage. The museum houses a remarkable collection nearing 1,200 instruments, including numerous sarangis and tungnas, as well as an impressive 10-foot-long laawaa horn. “As the elderly musicians pass away, their skills and knowledge risk extinction since they aren’t documented,” Kadel laments.

The sarangi, among other traditional instruments, is preserved thanks to initiatives like Project Sarangi, aimed at safeguarding and promoting Nepali folk music. Kiran Nepali, a prominent sarangi player with the celebrated band Kutumba, leads the project. Our group gathers in a classroom setting where Nepali introduces us to his beloved instrument and shares his musical journey.

“I come from a lineage of Gandarbhas,” he explains, referring to a community traditionally known for their music. “However, I didn’t start playing early; my father insisted on education first.” Motivated by a desire to change perceptions surrounding Gandarbhas, Nepali founded Project Sarangi to inspire younger generations to embrace the instrument. He established a factory to standardize instrument production and created a space for teaching music. Additionally, he incorporates effect pedals to infuse modern rock elements into Kutumba’s performances. “It’s essential to keep it current and engaging,” he emphasizes.

Interestingly, exploring his roots has allowed Nepali to integrate various folk styles into his performances worldwide. He recalls a moment in Scotland when he heard a local musician play a tune on bagpipes that felt instantly recognizable. “It was a similar experience for me with bluegrass and Irish music. There’s a universal thread that connects these folk traditions,” he reflects. Linhardt and Nepali then invite us to join them in an impromptu jam session. I strive to keep pace as they exchange rapid melodies playing the bluegrass classic “Squirrel Hunters.” With Linhardt on the mandolin and Nepali on the sarangi, they converse musically in a dialect I am gradually learning to understand.

This article appeared in the April 2025 issue of Condé Nast Traveler.

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