Photo credit: www.foodandwine.com
The innovative creation of caramelized cream is rooted in a happy accident that took place at the Farmhouse Inn in Sonoma County. Chef Craig Wilmer was crafting clotted cream when, due to inconsistent oven temperatures, he experienced some burning of the heavy cream edges. Understanding the significant difference in milk solids between heavy cream and butter, which is responsible for the nutty profile of brown butter, Wilmer and his team decided to taste the results.
“The flavor was extraordinarily concentrated,” Wilmer recalls. This serendipitous discovery quickly set caramelized cream, affectionately dubbed “super brown butter” or SBB at the restaurant, on the path to becoming a signature element in various dishes and desserts, including their beloved pancakes.
How to Prepare Caramelized Cream
To make caramelized cream, begin by bringing two cups of heavy cream to a boil in a sizable skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium and allow it to simmer, stirring frequently and scraping the pan’s bottom and sides until the mixture separates into fat and milk solids, and the solids take on a golden hue, which should take around 18 to 22 minutes. It is essential to manage the heat carefully to maintain simmering without burning.
As the cream simmers, prepare an ice water bath by filling a large bowl with ice and placing a medium-sized, heatproof bowl inside it. Once the cream reaches the desired color, remove it from the heat and keep stirring to leverage the residual heat for toasting the solids until they reach a dark golden brown, taking about one additional minute.
Next, transfer the caramelized cream into the bowl set in the ice water and stir constantly until it thickens and cools down, which should take one to two minutes without hardening. Afterwards, the caramelized cream is ready to be used in various culinary applications.
Chef Wilmer advises preparing caramelized cream on the stovetop instead of the oven for better control over the cooking process. To avoid scorching, once the cream reaches a golden brown color, turn off the heat and let the residual warmth continue the toasting. Wilmer describes the desirable aroma during this stage as a rich mixture of brown butter and hazelnuts, seeking a hint of bitterness along with a dark-brown roux appearance.
Creative Uses for Caramelized Cream
“Pancakes are an ideal pairing,” Wilmer suggests. The neutral flavor foundation of pancakes, made of flour and milk, perfectly complements the rich flavors that caramelized cream provides. When combined with raw sugar and a dash of cinnamon, the warm, nutty notes truly come alive, offering a deeper and more robust flavor profile akin to that of brown butter but with additional intensity.
However, the uses of caramelized cream extend far beyond pancakes. You can melt it in the microwave and combine it with toasted nuts, popcorn, or roasted veggies such as broccoli, carrots, or cauliflower, enhancing their flavors. Spread it over warm toast or biscuits at room temperature, perhaps finishing with flaky sea salt and honey for a delightful twist. For starchier side dishes, mixing a spoonful into mashed potatoes, steamed rice, or grains such as farro can impart a rich toastiness just before serving.
Proper Storage of Caramelized Cream
To keep the caramelized cream flavorful, store it in an airtight container in the refrigerator, where it can last for up to two weeks. Over time, the toasty flavors will develop and deepen, inviting even more possibilities for its use in the kitchen.
Source
www.foodandwine.com