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The Unique Climatic Challenge on Annapurna
Following an unexpectedly arid winter, Annapurna has transformed into a robust landscape characterized by rock and sheer ice, with minimal snow accumulation. For climbers, this scenario presents both challenges and potential advantages.
A Retreat Due to Resource Shortage
A Sherpa team, composed of eight members and responsible for fixing ropes on Annapurna, had to abandon their efforts recently—not due to harsh weather conditions, but because they depleted their supply of ice screws. Historically, climbers have relied on snow anchors deeply embedded in the snow, but this year, they faced the unusual obstacle of finding only a solid, icy surface that made securing their equipment particularly difficult.
Unprecedented Dryness
Mingma G of Imagine Nepal expressed astonishment at the current conditions, stating, “We have never seen conditions like this on Annapurna.” He elaborated that the winter dryness observed this year throughout Nepal’s mountainous regions explains the lack of snow cover, which is atypical for this time of year.
Last spring, Imagine Nepal provided assistance for rope-fixing on Annapurna when conditions were markedly different. A comparison of recent footage against similar clips from the previous spring showcases the stark contrasts in the mountain’s conditions.
Challenges and Safety on the Mountain
The Sherpa team has returned to Base Camp but plans to complete the rope installations to Camp 3 shortly. In the meantime, climbers associated with Imagine Nepal are acclimatizing around Thorong La, a prominent feature on the renowned Annapurna Circuit.
When these climbers arrive at Annapurna for their final rotation to Camp 2 ahead of their summit attempt, they will encounter technical sections and likely some vertical ice passages amid seracs. Nevertheless, should current conditions persist, the mountain may present a comparatively safe climbing experience.
Historically, Annapurna has been notorious for its danger among the 8,000-meter peaks, primarily due to the frequent avalanches that have plagued its normal north-side route. Most of these dangerous slides originated from the Great Couloir above Camp 1 and the seracs located between Camp 2 and Camp 3. With the current dryness of the peak, the risk of avalanches decreases significantly, as there is little snow to dislodge. However, climbers must remain vigilant; improper clipping to ropes could lead to severe falls on the ice, particularly if they are unroped.
Modern Logistics of Climbing Annapurna
The approach to climbing Annapurna has evolved dramatically with the increasing commercialization of the mountain. Presently, the ascent route is equipped with fixed ropes from the base all the way to the summit, including extensive sections near the top that were not traditionally secured.
Both the climbers and support staff now rely heavily on supplemental oxygen. Helicopters have also played a crucial role in this evolution, facilitating the transportation of equipment to the higher camps—typically Camp 4 or a designated “higher” Camp 3 at an elevation of 7,000 meters. These aerial resupplies include vital provisions such as ropes for the upper sections and oxygen reserves for use at the elevated camps.
Source
explorersweb.com