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New Year’s Day holds a special significance, marked not just by the transition into a new year but by the opportunity to savor a delicious bowl of soup joumou.
Soup joumou, a flavorful squash soup, hails from Haiti and carries with it a rich cultural heritage. This delightful dish typically starts with a base of calabaza, butternut squash, or pumpkin, and is enriched with various root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, and turnips. Seasoned with epis—a distinctive Haitian concoction combining peppers, garlic, and herbs—soup joumou may be accompanied by pasta like rigatoni, spaghetti, or even rice, depending on personal preference. Recipes for this traditional meal vary widely, with some opting for a vegetarian preparation while others incorporate beef and chicken.
According to Nadege Fleurimond, an author and chef-owner of BunNan and Fleurimond Catering in Brooklyn, the variations in soup joumou recipes reflect a diversity of household traditions. “It does vary from household to household,” Fleurimond explains.
Despite the many ways it can be prepared, soup joumou universally symbolizes freedom for Haitians.
On January 1, 1804, Haiti became the first Black republic in the Western Hemisphere, emerging from a protracted 13-year struggle where enslaved individuals toppled their French oppressors. The history of slavery in Haiti dates back to the arrival of the Taino people and later African captives that resulted in a devastating impact on their populations due to exploitation and violence. The Haitian Revolution, sparked in 1791 by leaders like Toussaint L’Ouverture against Napoleon Bonaparte, not only secured Haitian sovereignty but reverberated throughout the Americas, influencing significant geopolitical changes such as the Louisiana Purchase.
In a powerful celebration of their newfound independence, Haitian people began consuming soup joumou—a dish they were once forbidden to enjoy under French rule. Enslaved Haitians were tasked with growing and preparing the soup, which was deemed too good for them to taste. The act of eating soup joumou each New Year’s Day has since become an annual tradition—a way for the Haitian populace to commemorate their resilience and liberation.
For many, including myself, the story of soup joumou carries profound cultural significance, offering a narrative often absent from formal education. Growing up, my family would gather around a pot of soup joumou, eagerly awaiting servings from my mother, who took the opportunity to remind us of its importance as a symbol of our freedom.
The tradition of sharing soup joumou is cherished among Haitians globally. “In our neighborhood [in Haiti], families would trade soup with each other,” recalls Wesly Jean Simon, chef-owner of Brooklyn’s Djon Djon and Market Bar. Such exchanges foster community and connection.
In the United States, Haitians are actively sharing this cultural staple with diverse communities. Fleurimond emphasized the importance of making soup joumou accessible, noting that she recently hosted a soup joumou tutorial to demystify the dish for those unfamiliar with it. Her upcoming live cooking class in Brooklyn aims to educate others about this significant dish.
Simon has dedicated the past five years to giving away free bowls of soup at his restaurants, as well as delivering meals to local hospitals and police precincts. Last year alone, he distributed 900 cups and hopes to increase that number to 2,000 this year. Through this outreach, he aims to provide comfort to Haitian migrants while introducing non-Haitians to the flavors and history behind the soup. As he eloquently puts it, “It’s a part of Haitian history, and I want the world to remember our history.”
After moving out post-college, my mother started bringing over large batches of soup joumou on New Year’s Day, allowing me to share the dish with friends. When I introduced my roommates, who do not share my Haitian background, to the soup’s rich history, they began to anticipate its arrival each year. The tradition has now woven its way into their lives, reflecting how soup joumou is not only a dish of comfort but also a bridge to cultural understanding. “That’s the beauty of it,” Fleurimond states. “Soup joumou is becoming a part of other people’s tradition.”
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www.eater.com