Photo credit: www.vogue.com
Vegan leather has transcended its niche appeal among vegan brands and become a staple in the fashion world. However, understanding what vegan leather truly is extends beyond its cruelty-free designation. While it can serve as a sustainable substitute for traditional animal hides, its typical composition often includes synthetic materials like plastics. This article explores the advantages and disadvantages of vegan leather, questioning whether it’s merely a fleeting trend, part of the greenwashing movement, or a legitimate strategy in the fight against climate change.
Defining Vegan Leather
The confusion surrounding vegan leather stems from its broad terminology. Traditional leather is primarily derived from the hides of animals, mostly cattle, but can also originate from pigs, sheep, snakes, horses, and other creatures. Vegan leather, also known as faux leather, mimics the aesthetic and tactile qualities of genuine leather. It achieves this through synthetic options or plant-based sources, such as mushrooms, pineapple leaves, cactus, cork, and apple peels, which provide a similar texture. However, the majority of vegan leather is composed of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU), both of which are petroleum-based plastics. As long as the material does not incorporate any animal derivatives, including some innovative materials like those made from discarded shrimp shells, it can be classified as vegan.
The Role of Vegan Leather in Fashion
The fashion sector is increasingly embracing a variety of leather alternatives, ranging from fish skin to plant-based sources. High-end designers like John Galliano, Prada, and Christian Dior have experimented with fish skin in their collections, a practice rooted in various Indigenous cultures around the world. Brands such as Nanushka and Hugo Boss are also focusing on completely vegan leather substitutes, showcasing the industry’s shift towards more sustainable and ethical sourcing.
Contrasting Faux and Real Leather
For those who have adopted a vegan lifestyle or are experimenting with plant-based living, faux leather presents a viable alternative to traditional animal leather. The manufacturing of real leather involves an extensive process where animal hides are heavily salted, treated with calcium oxide, and tanned, followed by a liquoring method that incorporates fats and oils to enhance softness and durability. Real leather is marked by its distinctive earthy aroma and becomes more supple over time. The tanning process often involves toxic substances like formaldehyde and arsenic, with chromium and vegetable tanning being the most prevalent methods. While chromium tanning offers increased water and heat resistance, it produces hazardous waste that can contaminate nearby waterways, posing risks to both the environment and factory workers.
On the other hand, vegetable tanning opts for natural materials such as tree bark, which is generally considered safer and more ecologically friendly. Well-maintained genuine leather can last for decades. Recently, though, vegan leather has advanced beyond being just a low-cost plastic option. Plant-based alternatives, though still facing challenges in scaling for major fast fashion brands, are making headway. Notably, prominent brands like Stella McCartney are integrating these sustainable materials into their collections. However, the prevalence of fossil fuel-based vegan leather—especially among mass-market clothing manufacturers—reveals that this alternative might not be as environmentally beneficial as anticipated. Plastic-based vegan leathers often have shorter lifespans, contributing to landfill waste or finding themselves discarded more readily than genuine leather products. Furthermore, unlike natural leather, plastic-based materials struggle with biodegradability. Both traditional and synthetic leather production processes involve chemical treatments, where PVC may emit pollutants and toxic substances. Although PU leather is considered less damaging than PVC, it still derives from fossil fuels. Overall, natural fibers emerge as a superior choice for those seeking vegan leather options.
Making an Informed Choice
While vegan leather crafted from plastic materials such as PVC and PU can be detrimental to the environment, its production often aligns with a culture of rapid consumption. For those committed to veganism for ethical reasons, exploring bio-based leather alternatives may present a more sustainable path forward.
Source
www.vogue.com