Where to Experience Authentic Bandeja Paisa in Bogotá

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Colombian cuisine is characterized by its robust flavors and hearty dishes, with bandeja paisa standing out as a quintessential example. This dish, known as the “paisa tray,” is emblematic of Colombia’s Paisa region, which encompasses the Department of Antioquia and the mountainous coffee-producing areas in the northwest of the country.

Often described as a “festival of meat on an oversized plate,” bandeja paisa is a hearty comfort food that celebrates diverse flavors and textures. It features a variety of meats including pork sausages (like chorizo and morcilla, or blood sausage), crispy chicharrón (fried pork rinds), and seasoned ground beef. This array of proteins is accompanied by comforting staples such as white rice, red beans, an arepa (corn cake), sweet fried plantains, fresh avocado, and hogao (a savory tomato and onion sauce), topped with a fried egg that adds richness to the dish.

The dish’s origins are somewhat obscure, but it is believed to have developed as a hearty meal for farmers who needed sustenance for long days in the fields. It is thought to have roots in the Spanish colonial period, where Native American ingredients began to blend with those brought over by the Spanish. This fusion led to the creation of a dish that echoes the agricultural heritage of the region, combining local beans, corn, and tomatoes with the meats introduced by colonizers. Bandeja paisa may have evolved from traditional Antioquian meals like seco antioqueño, which originally featured simpler protein and grain pairings.

Today, bandeja paisa is no longer simply viewed as peasant food but has transformed into a source of pride for those from the Paisa area, particularly Medellín, the capital of Antioquia and Colombia’s second-largest city. Its popularity has expanded across Colombia, leading to numerous regional variations that adapt the dish with different ingredients.

In some restaurants in Antioquia, a more elaborate variant known as the “seven meats platter” presents an even grander array of flavors with the addition of grilled steak, pork, and liver. Meanwhile, Bogotá’s interpretation of bandeja paisa often opts for lighter components, substituting pork with grilled chicken and chorizo for hot dogs, and it may even include a side salad instead of the traditional blood sausage. In other regions like Tolima, the dish is served with french fries in place of the customary plantains.

In 2005, an effort was made by the Colombian government to designate bandeja paisa as the national dish, rebranding it as bandeja montañera to promote its wider national identity beyond the Paisa region. However, this initiative encountered resistance and did not gain traction. Regardless of its official status, bandeja paisa represents far more than just a meal; it embodies the agricultural richness of the country and is a symbol of Colombia’s hospitality and community spirit. Frequently shared during family gatherings and festivities, it serves as a connection to the nation’s cultural and culinary heritage.

Fond memories of enjoying bandeja paisa at roadside eateries during childhood trips from Bogotá linger, where the challenge was not just the meal’s size but the explosion of flavors that represents Colombia on a plate.

Almost every Colombian restaurant presenting traditional dishes includes bandeja paisa on their menu, often with unique local modifications. For those planning to visit Bogotá, here are some establishments renowned for their remarkable bandeja paisa.

Bogotá restaurants

Casa Vieja

Nestled in a quaint old house adorned with antiques and chandeliers, this downtown establishment offers authentic Colombian cuisine. With a legacy spanning over 50 years, Casa Vieja maintains a commitment to time-honored recipes, serving its bandeja paisa under the traditional name of plato del montañero (mountaineer’s plate), which highlights its geographical origins.

Las Cazuelas de la Abuela

This beloved local spot serves standard bandeja paisa alongside other traditional dishes on its entirely Colombian menu. Established in 2000, Cazuelas de la Abuela (Grandma’s Casseroles) is cherished for its authentic, home-style meals inspired by classic recipes.

Restaurante La Herencia

Offering a culinary journey through Colombia, Restaurante La Herencia provides a charming country-style ambiance in the heart of Bogotá’s financial district, often chosen for special events. Their bandeja paisa remains true to authentic recipes from the past.

La Puerta de la Catedral

Located in Bogotá’s historical center, La Puerta de la Catedral is situated within a 300-year-old mansion that played a significant role in the nation’s history. One of its standout offerings is the generous bandeja paisa, which is also available in a vegetarian format that substitutes traditional meats with lentils, chickpea croquettes, vegan blood sausage, and vegetable-protein chorizo.

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