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The Evolving Landscape of Vegan and Vegetarian Dining

When entering a barbecue restaurant or a smash burger establishment, few expect to find extensive plant-based selections. However, during a recent outing at a pub in Brooklyn with friends holding various dietary preferences, I was disappointed to discover the absence of any vegan options on the menu. The fries, served with aioli rather than ketchup, stood as the sole vegetarian offering. This exclusion in a pub, a dining concept that typically aims to be inclusive, was quite noticeable.

The evolution of vegan cuisine has been remarkable since my last experience with plant-based offerings, which left much to be desired. Gone are the days of unappetizing substitutes; today’s landscape features rich plant-based cheeses and flavorful meat alternatives. Although only four percent of the American population identifies as vegetarian and merely one percent as vegan, the demand for incorporating more plant-based meals appears to be on the rise, as noted in recent studies showing an increase in interest.

The growth of modern diners and all-day cafes is prompting chefs to broaden their menus to appeal to diverse dietary preferences. Notably, the trend reflects a keen understanding that catering to different dietary needs can help attract and retain a wider range of customers. Nevertheless, many restaurants still have significant room for improvement before they can authentically claim to serve everyone.

Brian Cortes, chef de cuisine at Sour Duck Market in Austin, Texas, advocates for the inclusion of vegetarian or vegan options in every restaurant’s menu. He emphasizes that from a business perspective, alienating any segment of the customer base is not advisable. At his establishment, he often draws inspiration from local farms, striving to create vegan dishes that showcase flavorful ingredients. “As a chef, you should be able to craft delicious food that’s also vegan,” he asserts.

Mike Stankovich, who runs Mid-City in Cincinnati, reflects a similar ethos. Although his restaurant doesn’t exclusively cater to vegans, his background in the punk scene has kept him sensitive to the needs of vegan diners. He discovered that many popular menu items were plant-based, such as vegetable tempura and seasonal soups. Stankovich strives to adapt dishes for diverse diets and employs a separate fryer for vegan items, showcasing his commitment to inclusivity.

Cortes acknowledges that the focus should not merely be on meeting a certain percentage of the menu with vegan options, but rather ensuring a diverse selection. The definition of a “good amount” will vary depending on the restaurant’s menu size. For example, Sour Duck offers various vegan items among numerous dishes, while Mid-City has fewer overall options, making the ratio more apparent.

For Madalyn Durrant, executive chef at Bar Parisette in Chicago, clear communication of menu offerings is vital. Her innovative approach, rooted in French cuisine, allows her room to explore vegetarian and vegan meal options. Durrant emphasizes the importance of thinking from the guest’s perspective to ensure they feel satisfied and nourished when dining.

Menus posted online are often the first point of contact between diners and restaurants. Tim Donnelly, co-founder of the New York Groove, expressed frustration at the limited vegetarian and vegan selections at the revived Kellogg’s Diner. Despite its claim of offering a modern, diverse menu, the options for plant-based diners remained remarkably scarce, leading Donnelly to question the restaurant’s commitment to inclusivity.

There seems to be a disconnect between chefs and diners regarding vegetarian and vegan choices. Stankovich notes that the absence of a public acknowledgment of a separate vegan fryer has contributed to word-of-mouth popularity among vegan diners. All chefs interviewed show a willingness to accommodate dietary requests if approached. Durrant encourages diners to call ahead for vegan options, relishing the opportunity to provide more substantial meals beyond basic offerings.

However, this dynamic places the onus on vegan diners to put in the effort to reach out, which they may not be inclined to do if the menu doesn’t initially appear accommodating. Donnelly points out that many diners will simply choose a different restaurant if they don’t see vegan offerings. To draw in diverse clientele, restaurants could easily label menu items and indicate that modifications are available, such as maintaining a separate vegan fryer or griddle, which would eliminate confusion regarding hidden animal products.

Historically, some chefs have held dismissive attitudes toward dietary preferences that do not align with their traditional culinary focus. Figures like David Chang and Anthony Bourdain have openly criticized the demands of vegetarian and vegan diners. Yet, as the dining landscape evolves, so too must the perspectives of chefs. It is becoming increasingly untenable to disregard the preferences of a growing sector of diners.

Although certain restaurants may prioritize specific culinary traditions, establishments like diners and casual cafes should aim to serve a broad clientele, including those who prefer plant-based meals. The expectation for at least one vegetarian option on the menu has become the standard, reflecting a shift in consumer preferences.

The culinary world has indeed progressed; it’s now unusual to encounter a restaurant devoid of even a single vegetarian dish. Stankovich highlights that even the well-known chili chain Gold Star has introduced vegetarian Cincinnati chili. Yet, he notes a troubling trend where some chefs reluctantly add a vegan option with minimal consideration, leading to poor sales and the conclusion that such offerings aren’t worth pursuing. The root of the problem often lies in inadequate preparation, not in a lack of demand.

While the Brooklyn pub was prepared to accommodate additional requests, demonstrating a basic level of customer service, the restaurant industry as a whole must strive to genuinely offer options for everyone, showcasing their willingness to meet diverse dining needs.

Source
www.eater.com