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Portland’s Xiao Ye Embraces the Burger Trend Amid Culinary Identity

On a bustling Monday night, diners filled the tables of Xiao Ye, a Portland restaurant that debuted in September 2023. While the menu typically features unique dishes like khao soi radiatori pasta, green curry lamb, and unexpected desserts like mini madeleines crafted from glutinous rice and masa, the evening was dedicated to something different: burgers.

The inaugural burger night emerged as a response to the challenges faced by Xiao Ye in the early months of operation. After a promising start, January’s typical restaurant slump left chef Louis Lin searching for innovative ways to draw back diners. His idea? A special burger night.

“The first burger we made was kind of ridiculous,” Lin reminisced. “It was a jalapeno popper burger that I just breaded and fried, and we ended up selling 40.”

Thus began a new tradition at Xiao Ye, which has celebrated its twelfth burger night since the event’s inception. The popularity of these nights has sparked discussions about whether a burger should find a permanent place on the menu and caused Lin to confront a common dilemma among chefs: the implications of including a beloved burger in a restaurant known for its distinctive cuisine.

Although burgers are universally enjoyed and provide a familiar option for diners who may be less adventurous, they also present a series of challenges for culinary establishments. These include lowering the average check per diner, complicating kitchen operations, and potentially transforming a restaurant’s image into a burger joint, even if its ethos is rooted in more refined fare.

Caroline Glover, a chef who gained recognition as a 2019 F&W Best New Chef for her work at Annette Scratch to Table in Colorado, has observed the push-pull dynamic firsthand. During her tenure at The Spotted Pig in New York, the presence of burgers dictated much of the kitchen’s workflow.

“That whole kitchen was run on burgers,” Glover noted. “It was wild to me that we had such beautiful food, yet people still gravitated towards burgers, making the grill the center of our kitchen.”

Initially, Glover didn’t plan to feature burgers on her menu. However, when the COVID-19 pandemic struck, she drew inspiration from her time in New York and crafted a burger on a homemade English muffin, complete with toppings including a local Wagyu-style beef patty, chow chow sauce, lettuce, and pickles. This creation quickly became a standout offering during the pandemic, earning a permanent spot on the menu.

“That became our pandemic item,” Glover reflected, noting that customer enthusiasm led her to keep it available long after initial intentions changed.

Ultimately, she decided to limit its availability to the happy hour menu to alleviate production burdens that interfered with the rest of the dining experience. The labor-intensive nature of creating the English muffins and the interruption to kitchen workflows proved too significant to maintain it as a dinner item.

“Annette is a tiny kitchen, and we really want people to share everything,” Glover explained. The unique nature of the burger often means guests don’t share it, which can create logistical challenges in timing and service.

At Xiao Ye, Lin faces similar obstacles. While burger nights bring in new patrons, the lower spending per guest complicates revenue comparisons with standard service nights, necessitating an uptick in seating turnover to satisfy financial targets.

In Philadelphia, the modern American restaurant River Twice utilizes its “Mother Rucker” burger to attract diners on slower nights. This burger, featuring dual beef patties, “fromage Américaine,” pickled onions, and mayonnaise on a milk bun, stands in contrast to the restaurant’s other more delicately presented offerings.

Chef-owner Randy Rucker described the burger as “a perfect metaphor for the restaurant,” showcasing a balance of seriousness in culinary craft and a healthy dose of irreverence.

Likewise, Lin finds joy in the experimentation that burger nights allow without committing to a permanent fixture on the menu. He expresses a desire to change the format when it becomes stale, hinting at possibilities for future themed nights like taco or hot dog nights.

“The story that we’re trying to tell is way better told through the rest of our food,” Lin asserts. He is committed to maintaining the restaurant’s identity, ensuring that the overarching narrative of Xiao Ye remains intact as it navigates the evolving culinary landscape.

Source
www.foodandwine.com