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When ramp leaves, garlic mustard, and field garlic are blended together, they create a unique concoction known as feral goddess dressing. This variation builds upon the classic green goddess dressing, which originated in San Francisco in the 1920s, and showcases an intuitive use of seasonal, local greens. The native ramp leaves combined with the invasive field garlic provide a robust allium flavor, mirroring the garlic used in traditional recipes, while garlic mustard, an invasive yet tasty green, contributes the necessary mustard element. Just like its well-known predecessor, feral goddess dressing is versatile, suitable for various culinary applications: it’s delightful as a spread on crackers and toasts, a condiment for vegetables, eggs, and grilled proteins, a dip for crunchy crudités, or a refreshing salad dressing. Additionally, when served chilled, it offers a satisfying, spoon-friendly experience reminiscent of a tonic soup.
Here’s a simple recipe to create your own feral goddess dressing.
Photography by Marie Viljoen.
Green goddess dressing traces its origins back to the kitchen of San Francisco’s Palace Hotel in the 1920s. However, the only novel aspect was its name, inspired by a successful local theatrical production. This was later adapted into a silent film in 1923, followed by a “talkie” in 1930 featuring George Arliss, a white actor cast in a role depicting an Indian character. The dressing itself was largely influenced by classic raw green sauces, such as salsa verde, which incorporates anchovies and capers, the French persillade made with fresh herbs, and the spring-focused Grüne Soße, a blend of buttermilk and new herbs.
In my version of feral goddess dressing, I retained the distinct anise flavor, which can be derived from French tarragon, chervil, or the delicate spring leaves of anise hyssop. I also preserved the anchovies and capers and combined these with buttermilk and mayonnaise for a creamy texture.
This dressing is packed with health benefits—fiber, antioxidants, probiotics, vitamins, and minerals come together in this nutritious option. Many Americans fall short of their daily fiber intake; instead of relying solely on supplements, one can turn to greens. Feral goddess dressing embraces a variety of leaves, balancing their fibrous content with an abundance of flavor, as well as vitamins A, C, and K. Ramp leaves and field garlic are alliums rich in phytochemicals and flavonoids, known for promoting heart health, regulating blood sugar, and providing anti-inflammatory benefits. Meanwhile, buttermilk brings probiotics to the mix, and extra virgin olive oil adds antioxidant polyphenols.
Responsible harvesting methods, such as collecting only ramp leaves, allow for sustainable enjoyment of these slow-growing plants. It’s crucial to recognize the impact of invasive species like garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata), which can disrupt native ecosystems by producing thousands of seeds. Preventing these plants from setting seed by harvesting their tender flowering stems is an effective management strategy.
As the seasons change, consider the delightful combination of spring asparagus served atop feral goddess dressing on seed bread toast.
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www.gardenista.com