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Zuni Cafe, a legendary establishment in San Francisco, has been serving as a hallmark of California cuisine since its inception in 1979. Among its offerings, the roasted chicken with bread salad stands out as a signature dish, introduced by the late chef Judy Rodgers nearly three decades ago. Diners and critics alike rave about the dish’s straightforward appeal: perfectly roasted chicken with crispy skin served on a warm bed of toasted bread and seasonal greens, all generously drizzled with a flavorful vinaigrette. However, those attempting to create this culinary masterpiece at home via the Zuni Cafe Cookbook may find the recipe to be much more complex than it appears, often leading to an encounter with a smoky kitchen.
My first taste of Zuni Cafe’s renowned chicken occurred during a trip to the Bay Area in 2004, prompted by a college friend eager to introduce me to her new partner. I was intrigued by their recent accolade from the James Beard Foundation, and the ambience of the restaurant added to the excitement. The boyfriend, strikingly handsome and charismatic, quickly earned my approval as we enjoyed stylish drinks at the bustling bar. However, everything changed once the food arrived.
We ordered several appetizers to pass the time while waiting for our chicken, which took about an hour to prepare in Zuni’s celebrated wood-fire oven. The moment it arrived, it matched all expectations: the skin crackled, and the meat was succulent, beautifully complemented by vibrant salad beneath. But as I savored my plate, I was taken aback when the boyfriend discarded his chicken skin and left the bread salad untouched. My amusement transitioned to disbelief, distracting me from the conversation and invoking echoes from a memorable scene in Caddyshack.
Despite my initial judgment of this dining faux pas, I enjoyed the remarkable chicken and later purchased the Zuni Cafe cookbook. My friend’s subsequent inquiry about her boyfriend’s impression led me to boldly declare, “No, he’s no fun.”
Over the years, I have crafted my version of the Zuni chicken salad, refining it to suit my kitchen’s more practical realities. The original recipe spans four-and-a-half pages of dense text, recounting Chef Rodgers’ philosophy on selecting the right chicken — no larger than 3 ½ pounds while needing to know specifics about its upbringing and diet. Sourcing a chicken of that weight has proven increasingly difficult, leading me to adapt my approach to accommodate birds in the more readily available 3 ¾- to 4-pound range.
Once I acquire the appropriate chicken, the lengthy process described in the cookbook involves washing (though I personally skip this step), dry-brining, and carefully placing herbs under the skin. Attempting to achieve a perfect fit often results in a struggle, with the risk of tearing the skin, which can lead to dry meat when cooked. The chicken requires a curing period in the refrigerator to enhance tenderness and develop a desirable skin texture.
Roasting poses its own set of challenges; achieving the ideal high temperature of 475 degrees can vary based on several factors, such as oven efficiency and chicken size. Moreover, high-heat roasting inevitably creates a cloud of smoke regardless of an oven’s cleanliness or ventilation capabilities. This experience necessitates flipping the chicken several times to ensure an even distribution of juices and achieve that coveted crispy skin, demanding a careful balance of skill and physical strength.
As the chicken cooks, preparation for the accompanying salad begins: toasting bread chunks, creating a vibrant vinaigrette, soaking currants, and sautéing aromatics. This intricate recipe requires repeated attention and numerous utensils, leading to a cluttered kitchen and a sink full of dishes.
Interestingly, the instructions for the bread salad are more detailed than those concerning how to determine the doneness of the chicken, which can leave novice cooks uncertain. Chef Rodgers presumes an understanding of poultry cooking techniques, providing vague timelines without proper guidance for testing meat safety, which can result in confusion during meal preparation.
After many culinary adventures with this recipe—including tears over stained pages and frantic attempts to thwart my smoke alarm—I discovered a more efficient method to recreate the Zuni Cafe’s crispy chicken skin at home.
To simplify the cooking process, I now spatchcock the chicken, which involves removing the backbone. This technique enables more even cooking and eliminates the need for constant flipping. I still adhere to the practice of dry-brining, allowing the chicken to rest uncovered in the refrigerator for a day, preferably covered lightly with parchment instead of plastic wrap, which can trap moisture.
To combat the smoke generated from roasting, I place thick potato slabs at the bottom of the roasting pan to absorb excess fat. This ambitious tactic not only reduces smoke but also offers a delightful side of crispy potatoes, enriched by chicken drippings.
Using an instant-read thermometer, I carefully monitor the chicken’s cooking process. Pulling it from the oven at a breast temperature of 155 degrees accounts for residual cooking while ensuring that I’m not left with dry meat, especially given that a spatchcocked chicken can cook in as little as 35 minutes.
The skillet used for roasting becomes central to flavor development, as I use it to sauté onions and garlic in the residual chicken fat after the bird is out of the oven. Adding currants, vinegar, and some broth allows for an enriching sauce to be formed, which will marry the dish together beautifully.
After resting the chicken and slicing it with ease, I can create a vibrant salad, combining the toasted bread with the warm ingredients and aromatic greens. This streamlined process results in an elegant, flavorful meal with much less smoke and mess, ready in just about an hour.
As for my friend and her suitor, their relationship didn’t fare as well as my culinary journey. She ended things about a year later, characterizing him as a joyless presence. I often reflect that a person’s approach to dining can reveal much about their character — a valuable lesson learned through food experiences.
Zuni Cafe Roast Chicken Recipe
Adapted from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 small (3½- to 4-pound) chicken
2 teaspoons sea salt, plus more for seasoning salad
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 to 8 (2-inch) sprigs fresh thyme, rosemary, or sage (or a mix of all three)
8 ounces rustic bread, bottom crust cut off, cut into 4 large chunks
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
8 ounces Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch-thick rounds
3 green onions, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon dried currants
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
¼ cup homemade or low sodium chicken broth
3 cups seasonal greens such as frisee, arugula, or radicchio, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted (optional)
Instructions:
Step 1: Put the chicken on a cutting board with the backbone facing you. Use poultry shears or a boning knife to cut along either side of the backbone, remove, and reserve for another use (such as making broth). Place the chicken skin side up on the cutting board and push down firmly on the breastbone with your palm to flatten the chicken out (you should hear a faint crack). Tuck the wings behind the back. Pat dry thoroughly with paper towels.
Step 2: Combine the salt and pepper in a small bowl. Slide your fingers carefully under the skin of the breast and shove a few pinches of the salt mixture and herbs beneath it and in the pocket between the thigh and the breast. Rub the remaining salt mixture all over the chicken. Refrigerate uncovered on a rimmed baking sheet or plate for 24 to 48 hours. (Make sure it stays away from other food in the fridge, so it doesn’t get cross contaminated.)
Step 3: Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before roasting to take the chill off it while you preheat the oven. Place an oven rack in the bottom third of the oven. Put a large (12-inch) oven-proof skillet in the oven and set it to 475 degrees.
Step 4: While the oven preheats, put the bread in the skillet and toast it, turning once, until it is golden brown in places and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the bread to a cutting board, wipe any crumbs out of the skillet, and return the pan to the oven. Tear or cut the bread into large bite-size pieces and place in a large bowl. Set aside.
Step 5: When the oven is up to temperature, toss the potatoes with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and place them in the hot skillet. Put the chicken skin side up on top of the potatoes, arranging the legs towards each other (the end of the drumsticks should just touch). Roast until an instant-read thermometer registers 155 degrees in the thickest part of the breast (about 170 degrees in the thigh), 35 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken. If you have a convection setting in your oven, turn it on for the last 5 minutes of cooking for an extra crispy skin.
Step 6: Remove the skillet from the oven. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board set in a baking sheet and let it stand uncovered for 15 minutes. Scoop the potatoes out of the skillet into a serving dish, cover with foil, and set aside in a warm place.
Step 7: Place the skillet on the stove over medium heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil, green onions, garlic, and currants and cook, stirring constantly, until they soften and become fragrant but not browned, 1 minute. Add the vinegar and broth. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the skillet, until the mixture is reduced to about ½ cup. Keep the sauce warm over low heat until ready to serve.
Step 8: Cut the legs away from the body of the chicken and cut them into drumstick and thigh pieces at the joint. Cut the breast meat in half crosswise through the bone with a sharp chef’s knife. Pour any accumulated juices into the skillet to mix with the sauce.
Step 9: Pour the sauce over the bread, then add the greens and pine nuts and toss to coat everything. Season to taste with salt and pepper, keeping in mind that the chicken is fairly salty on its own. Mound the salad on a serving platter and top with the chicken. Serve immediately with the potatoes on the side.
Ivy Manning is a Portland, Oregon-based award-winning food writer and author of 10 cookbooks, including Tacos A to Z: A Delicious Guide to Nontraditional Tacos. She is a regular recipe tester and editor for Eater as well as for restaurants and appliance brands.
Dina Ávila is a photographer living in Portland, Oregon.
Source
www.eater.com